real classic beauty

Classic beauty is among my favourite things to photograph. Pushing the lighting envelope to catch the female face in the perfect light is a challenge that I always love to embrace. It is not as simple as just standing a good face in some light. Each face has different dynamics, different skin, shape, and of course ability of expression.

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Even with the most expression able faces with the most flawless complexions always require a make up artist who can bring the best out in them. Zoe Peplow is one of the best in the industry. Her ability to do just the right thing never ceases to amaze me. From the extremely crazy and flamboyant, to the most subtle of looks, Zoe always get’s it right…

Zoe’s Process:

“I started by applying a super hydrating primer to the skin to create a flawless base, then using small amounts of a light reflecting highlighter I buffed this into the skin to give a beautiful glowing base. By mixing foundation and primer together it allows you to stipple on a light layer without dulling the highlighter applied previously.
Illamasqua’s gel sculpt was applied using the palm of the thumb to the hollows of the cheekbones, nose and around the forehead for a naturally contoured finish” Zoe Peplow.

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Edits on beauty shoots can often be quite challenging, as the combination of lighting and details in which digital senors capture reveal every detail of a models complexion. Nicola’s good skin and Zoe’s fabulous make up do though mean this was a minimal edit. A little healing and minimal Gaussian blur is all the retouch involved.

Colour or Black and white?

I love black and white. I don’t always create black and white images for beauty shoots, especially when the make up artist has gone to a lot of trouble to create lots of colour! But fo this shoot the make up lent itself to a mono conversions, and I much prefer the mono shots here.

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Set up for this shoot:

1 x Beauty dish, to the models right, my left, at 90 degrees to the model.

Camera: Canon EOS 5D MK3, 100mm prime lense

Aperture: F11: Shutter: 1/125th sec: ISO 100

Model: Nicola Jane

Make Up/ Hair: Zoe Peplow 

Photography: Lance Burkitt