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[whohit]shadow[/whohit] Styled by Racheal Ouma   Model: Hannah Cates Follow Make up: Cat Eccles: Follow @cateccles Hair: Olivia Wegrzynska: Follow @oliviaweg Styling: Racheal Ouma: Follow @styling_racheal www.rachealouma.com Photos: Lance Burkitt: Follow @burkittphoto Photographed at: New York Studio, Rotherham: Follow @newyork_studio

[whohit]expose[/whohit] Styled by Racheal Ouma Model: Anete Lusina: Follow @Anete_L Make up: Cat Eccles: Follow @cateccles Hair: Olivia Wegrzynska: Follow @oliviaweg Styling: Racheal Ouma: Follow @styling_racheal www.rachealouma.com Photos: Lance Burkitt: Follow @burkittphoto Photographed at: New York Studio, Rotherham: Follow @newyork_studio

[whohit]northern[/whohit] Nicki Donohoe is one of Sheffield’s most recognizable faces. You speak to anyone who works in the creative world and they know Nicki. She has, through her own sheer determination and natural talent, carved her own path in the creative world leaving many in her wake. Nicki visited us recently for her cover shoot and she kindly gave us a little insight in the world of a hard-working, authentic modette… AM: Great to see you Nicki! Have to say you are looking fab! Did you need to do much preparation for today’s 1960’s mod/ ‘Peggy Moffitt’ inspired shoot? ND: Hiya, and thanks that’s very kind of you to say! No I didn’t to be honest; everything I have on is what I wear day to day. In fact I wish I’d brought more! AM: You are a professional Make-up artist by trade; who or what inspired you to venture in the cut throat world that is modeling? ND: I’ve been a Make-up Artist for many years, I did a favour for a photographer who wanted a short bob hairstyle, which I had at the time, and he took some shots for his website. I was encouraged to send them to a local model agency. Luckily they must have wanted some new faces as 2 days later I was filming a TV advert for DFS! It was all a bit of a whirlwind and very surprising to me- I never thought for a second that they would be interested. AM: That’s a very modest response there Nicki. Do you find you prefer one of your creative jobs over the others? ND:  I’m not sure I would say I prefer a particular thing. I’m constantly aware of how lucky I am to do more than one thing professionally. However, as doing make up is my actual trade and passion, I might have to say that. I still love it so much, even after all these years. It never feels like work. AM: Have you always been inspired by the 1960’s? How did your ‘style’ come about? ND: From as far as I can remember yes! I inherited my mums 60’s Sindy dolls when I was little and I just loved their clothes. I remember spending hours and hours designing clothes and colouring them in. Remember those big scrap books? I used to ask for them for Christmas and then spent every spare hour drawing clothes. I wish I’d kept them! I used to copy the models from my mums Freeman’s catalogue and re- do the clothes they were wearing. That then transpired into make-up when I was about 12 and I got my first make up kit. My style as such has always been different. Some liked it some hated it. I used to love picking pieces up from vintage shops. A few years ago you could get some amazing things!! Of course I stood out a bit but I was never bothered about getting teased. AM: Does your taste in music/ films follow your taste in fashion? ND: Absolutely yes! I’m pretty eclectic, but everything I tend to listen to has a certain vibe to it. I love Motown and Northern Soul…. any kind of soul! I also love Reggae and Ska, but I’m partial to a bit of Tame Impala; Moon Safari is still a favourite album. Stone Roses are my favourite band and I like some 80’s too. I also watched Disclosure the other week and I thought they were great. But I go back to soul every time. Film wise, 60’s films are just awesome – even if you watch it just for the clothes! My favourite film is ‘Blow Up’. AM:  Do you still get nervous during photo-shoots? Or have you got used to the pressure and expectations? ND: Not really – I get excited! The fact that it still excites me is definitely a good thing! Then it’s taken over by ‘I need to do a good job’. Not so much nervousness but perhaps anxious. Again I like a good challenge. Especially as a creative! A learning curve is never a bad thing. AM: Do you have any modeling/ creative ambitions yet unattained? ND: Creative wise yes, I want to do more things. I’m lucky I get to do amazing jobs! And I have a few regular clients which I cherish. I was helping out on This Is England HMU team and I loved that, so maybe becoming more involved in TV/film in the future would be good. AM: You travel a lot in your jobs. Do you see yourself ever making a permanent move away from your Sheffield Roots? ND: I do travel a lot but I always love coming home. I love Sheffield and I can’t think of any reason why I would want to leave. AM: One last thing Nicki. You always seem to have a stylish haircut; what would you consider to be your favourite hair style? ND: I have to say the Pixie hair- cut. I think anyone who pulls off a great pixie is good in my book! Thanks Nicki it’s been fabulous chatting with you! We look forward to catching up with you again real soon! Why not give Nicki a follow on twitter Follow @nickidonohoe or checkout her work on her website www.nicki–donohoe.com Make up, Hair, Styling: Nicki Donohoe Images: Lance Burkitt © ascendance magazine  

[whohit]shooting beauty[/whohit] Beauty …. /bjuːti/ “a combination of qualities, such as shape, colour, or form, that pleases the aesthetic senses, especially the sight” A genre that, for me, stands on its own; of all the genres I have photographed over the years “Beauty” is perhaps the most challenging yet most rewarding of them all. Often the most naturally “beautiful” or “photogenic” of people are the most difficult to make look so in camera. By the same token, often those who may not be obviously beautiful can through lighting, make up, hair, technique and with their own ability become absolutely beautiful once the lens is upon them. There is so much intricacy involved in photographing beauty. Firstly you have to choose the face. Faces are important. A few factors will determine what kind of face you need for the gig, and there a lot of face types out there to choose from! Often the client will decide, often you are asked to supply the face. Whichever way, you have to carefully select the right face, and ability, of the model/ actor to deliver the “looks” you need! Once you have selected the face, you have to consider the creative team. Creative teams work in different ways and produce different things. They have different skills, personalities and abilities, so often selecting the right team for the gig can be a minefield within itself! You should be very honest about what you expect from your creative teams. Give them an aim, point them in the right direction, but then let them do what they are brilliant at. Let your creative team breathe and they will produce awesome results. ‘Alana had amazing skin already so we started off by adding strobe cream by MAC. It’s an iridescent cream that can be used on its own or mixed with foundation. I mixed it with face and body foundation to create a high sheen on Alana’s skin. Wanted to keep the eyes natural but with a hint of gold so I used Illamasqua cream eye shadow. First time I had used it but I love! Was hard not to add liner but wanted to keep make-up fresh so just added mascara, a hint of margin blusher (again by MAC) and more highlighter. Super pleased with the result!’ Cat Eccles (Make -up artist) So you have the face, and the creative team. Now you have to use your creative eye and experience to light, compose and edit images that bring together all the elements I have spoken about. Over almost 10 years I have developed a workflow that works for me; from selecting the face, the team, the lighting, the background and the edit, I instinctively know what I want and what I will do before I even position a light. During the shoot the creative team constantly reviews the work. We are all on set, fixing, changing, perfecting our work as we go; there’s no room for “that’ll do” we are all, perfectionists here… 9.5 times out of ten, on beauty shootsin the studio, I will use my large octagon soft box alone. It gives such a beautiful and even spread of light and helps to create lovely skin tones. For this shoot though I decided to go out of the box a little and create a more interesting harsh/ soft effect across the model. To create this effect I used a 2 flash head set up. Off to my left (models right) was a flash head with silver bounce brolly, covered with yellow acetate to create the “golden” splash of light that I wanted. To my right (models left) I used a 1.5m Octagon soft box as the main light, to light the left side of Alana’s face, back and shoulder, positioned to just ‘glance’ the model. Both lights were set to F8. I used the white wall of the studio as a backdrop, positioning Alana slightly away from the wall to avoid shadows and too much light falling on it. Camera spec: Canon 7D, 28-105mm lens, F8, 1/125th sec, ISO 100. Custom White balance (5200k) Shot in JPG. Editing workflow is also an essential part of the process; if you have made good choices in model and team selection, any editing should be kept to a bare minimum! The creative ladies did a fabulous job, which was made easier by the professionalism of our model Alana. This combination of creative talent meant that only minimal editing was required on the images produced. Digital edit: White balance correction, levels, skin, image brighten, sharpen and save. Final thoughts… They say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder; as a photographer or creative, beauty can only ever be a good as the work you produce! Words and Pictures by Lance Burkitt Follow @burkittphoto Make up: Cat Eccles Follow @cateccles Hair Stylist:  Kelly Hanks Follow @KHHairDesign Model: Alana Elliot Follow @Alana_N_Elliott Photographed at New York Studio, Rotherham Follow @newyork_studio © ascendance magazine Definition of Beauty taken from Oxford Dictionary

[whohit]october cover[/whohit]